The carriage procession was long and proud: neat rows of emerald green vehicles with the minaret of the Mosque of Kutubia in the background. But even in the stifling October heat, few people want to ride in the late afternoon.
My husband and I had just walked through Marrakesh’s famous Jemaa el Fnaa square, marveling at the brightly colored fruit, vegetable, and spice stalls. However, the square, listed as an intangible cultural heritage site by UNESCO in 2001, feels completely different from when we visited it 10 years ago. At the time, we saw snake charmers, artisans, and tourists from around the world immersed in the chaos. This time, apart from the occasional sound of a motorcycle pushing a rod, the noise has lowered a notch, A lyrical call to prayer Or a zealous vendor who beckoned us to “come and see!”
That’s because, just a month before I traveled to Marrakech, a 6.8 magnitude earthquake struck Morocco, causing massive loss of life and structural damage, mostly in villages in the Atlas Mountains. Marrakech was not unscathed; several casualties and some buildings collapsed in Medina. Walking the winding alleys with our guide, Mohammed Bousekri, we occasionally spotted steel beams that served as reinforcements. (Today, visitors will visit the Koutoubia Mosque, which dates back to the 12th century and is now covered in scaffolding due to repairs.)
The rest of the city seemed unscathed; The airport was as open as ever, and many hotels and resorts were open, including the iconic La Mamounia, which celebrated its 100th anniversary with a gala over the weekend featuring local dignitaries and celebrities such as Mika and the French pianist Sofiane Pamart. Those who worked in shops and restaurants welcomed us in; I bought a chunky Berber necklace in Medina and chatted with the owner, a friend of Busekeri’s. He said, yeah, things are a little slow.
Still feeling the effects of COVID-19 closures over the past few years, business owners are struggling to cope with this new setback. “The mentality in Marrakech is that we need to come together,” said Nick Minucciani, co-founder of Marrakesh Life, a fashion brand. The brand sells trendy shirts, jackets, and dresses. His shop and studio in the industrial zone, Sidi Ghanem, employs 70 people, many of whom have family and friends in the hardest-hit parts of the country. “Marrakech is the heart, and the veins extend up the mountains.”
Minucciani’s point captures the “what should we do and what shouldn’t we do” question that many travelers, including me, feel right now. Tourism is a substantial economic driver worldwide, accounting for 7.6% of global GDP in 2022. Whether it’s a natural disaster, terrorism, or political upheaval, this is a crucial way for a destination to return to normalcy after a crisis. However, as a traveler, I also realize that visiting a place that has experienced a traumatic event can quickly become complicated. Are you a physical and emotional burden to residents? Will your dollars be welcomed? When is the best time to go?
While there is no one-size-fits-all answer, the travel industry experts I spoke with tend to follow a few principles when deciding to return to places affected by the tragedy. I follow this advice regularly myself, and it can make all of us better, more responsible travelers.
Use social media.
In the first hours and days after the September earthquake, many journalists – not to mention businesses in Marrakech and the Atlas Mountains – documented the rescue efforts in near real-time. La Mamounia, for example, posted on Instagram on September 11 that hotel employees and their families were safe. (They also appealed for donations to support relief efforts.) Then, surprisingly, things started to change: On September 13, a post depicting a dining table read: “We’re ready to serve you! With hashtags such as # Marrakesh, keep shining. # Marrakesh is now # Marrakesh Strong. On September 16, there was a post depicting female chefs and food displays to promote weekend brunches, with similar hashtags including #MarrakeshNeedsYou and #StrongMorocco. Discordant? However, In the world of Instagram, information and emotions are fast-changing. The hotel signaled to be open, which was one of the things that gave me the confidence to travel. If you’re planning a trip, consider following news from hotels, restaurants, tourist boards, and local authorities to stay informed of local conditions.
Call a travel consultant.
Many travelers are building long-term relationships with travel experts who can help them navigate complicated trips, tough restaurant reservations, or even last-minute concert tickets. Advisors have a global network that can give you real-time advice and help. They’re also essential when you’re traveling to a recently affected destination.
“We like to call a lot of different people in a destination and get their opinions,” says Jack Ezon, founder of luxury travel agency Embark Beyond and a member of T+L’s travel advisory board. “We also contact the concierge, specific guides, tour companies, and sometimes even the ma<s:1> tried ‘hotel restaurant. We ask them how they’re doing, if they’re ready, and what the place is like.”
Sometimes, travel consultants find themselves in a crisis. Take Mark Lakin, founder of the Legacy Untold and another member of T+L’s advisory board, who happened to be in Marrakech when the earthquake struck. “The media has a lot on their minds when they report the news,” Larkin told me recently, “and the tourism economy is rarely at the top of the list.” “I feel the most important thing I can do is report the truth to tourists and the tourism industry. Marrakech looks and feels normal after some cleanup and three days of national mourning, “added Larkin, who lives in New York City. “Shops, cafes, and restaurants welcome visitors with open arms.”
Manage your expectations.
In my experience, one of the biggest concerns for travelers is infrastructure: Is the destination right for me? “We’ve been talking to clients about destinations in recovery,” said Mr. Ezer of Embark Beyond. After years of sending clients to storm-affected destinations such as Puerto Rico, Los Cabos, and the Turks and Caicos Islands, he now sends clients to Maui, which is slowly returning after the fires. He told me how important it is to set expectations for his travelers. “We’ve been talking to customers about destinations in recovery. Most of the time, we’d suggest a visit, then hold your breath and wait for the inevitable “Is it safe?” Isn’t it all ruined? “Once you put things in perspective and give them an honest expectation of how things will look when they arrive, customers usually book.”
I felt comfortable returning to Marrakech because La Mamounia had been open for a few weeks. That being said, I did arrive at the hotel in a different, more empathetic frame of mind and with my eyes wide open. I am prepared to make more brilliant demands of the staff, to be more attuned to my circumstances, and to express my thanks and gratitude more openly. The restaurant, spa, and on-site boutiques welcome international guests. Still, given the circumstances, it can sometimes feel quiet and contemplative. I’m living a “normal” life here, like an everyday life during a difficult time.
Travel with sensitivity.
Even when a place is open to tourists, it’s crucial to understand what a trip means. Carmen Teresa Targa, vice president of Condado Travel in SAN Juan and another advisory board member, took this view. She endured Hurricane Maria hitting Puerto Rico and had conflicting emotions in its aftermath. “When someone called me and asked if I should come to the island for a tour, of course, I said yes,” said Targa, whose travel agency is family-owned. “Because their visits will bring in revenue. They came here to help my neighbors buy food, water, medicine, and fuel.”
At the same time, she was dealing with her crisis. “Do I want them to come?” No, no, no. I don’t want to see pictures on social media of people enjoying themselves on a beach 20 minutes from my house while I pray to all the dynamo gods to keep the machines running.”
So what’s a thoughtful traveler to do? “There will always be some places that recover faster than others: go to those places,” Targa advises. “Locals always welcome visitors, especially if it’s a tourism-dependent destination, but you must be vigilant, respectful, and show some compassion, especially if the destination has experienced a traumatic event.”
