Fes-el-Bali’s labyrinth-like passageways, crowded with pedestrians and occasionally haunted by donkeys, feel like relics from another era.
Don’t miss Fondouk el-Nejjarine, a three-story caravan hotel (or merchant’s hotel) turned woodworking museum. The building alone is worth a visit, with a central courtyard where caravans once stopped to rest. The exhibition features elaborately carved dowry boxes, doors, and furniture that illustrate the complexity of Moroccan woodworking over thousands of years. Climb the last flight of stairs to the roof, where you can relax with a cup of tea overlooking the old city.
Near the famous blue gate of Fez, Bab Bou Jeloud, the 14th-century Bou Inania Madrasa offers another glimpse of Moroccan artifacts. After a recent restoration, the school’s zellij tiles, carved stucco, and cedar woodwork look the same as they did 600 years ago. Across the street, stretch your neck, and you’ll see Dar al-Magana, a 14th-century bell tower where the water clock once used a series of Windows, weights, and bowls to keep time.
Visit the Mzadine Art Museum (m din Art) for bold prints and contemporary artifacts such as Babich and woven fabrics, then walk through an unremarkable entrance into Le Jardin des Biehn. The quiet courtyard, full of trees and fountains, is an inviting place for a drink – or just a brief respite from the crowds in Medina. If you’re tired of haggling at open-air markets, head to the on-site shops with top-of-the-line vintage rugs, kaftans, and jewelry. Stay in Riyadfis and return to watch the sunset from the rooftop bar with a glass of Moroccan wine in hand.
