On Vieques, there is no traffic light between the tree-lined tropical slopes and some of the best beaches in the Caribbean. Wild horses roam freely, waves glow with bioluminescence, and dramatic black sand beaches welcome visitors to this Caribbean island that has escaped the test of time.
Vieques, just six miles off the coast of Puerto Rico, is part of the U.S. territory, but in many ways, the islands could not be more different. “Puerto Rico has infectious energy and vitality. But in Vieques, you can find a deep connection to nature and profound relaxation, “says Sylvia DeMarco, founder of the Finca Victoria boutique hotel in the island’s lush heart.
The increasing number of flights to the Caribbean has made it easier than ever to get to Dabvieques—American travelers don’t need a passport. Read on for some insider guidance on planning an island trip that feels like another world.
Best Hotels & Resorts
Vieques doesn’t have Puerto Rico’s chain hotels or beach resorts, but it’s all better. Instead, small guesthouses and new boutique hotels offer visitors the chance to get up close and personal with the island.
Finca Victoria
Nestled on a lush hilltop in the heart of Vieques, Victoria is a modern retreat closely intertwined with nature. This 14-room boutique hotel offers accommodations ranging from tree houses and cabins to vintage airstreams, all with a healthy Caribbean touch for short stays or longer Ayurvedic healing experiences. The hotel was named the Best New Hotel in the world by T+L in the year of its debut.
Edelbrock
El Blok has the laid-back attitude of a Caribbean resort with all the flair of a modern design avant-garde city hotel. In the lively town center of Esperanza, steps from the beach and the beachfront walkway, El Blok is at the center of all activity on the island. The hotel’s rooftop pool and bar offer panoramic views of the Caribbean Sea, making it one of the best places in Vieques to watch the sunset with a cocktail.
Grand Manor Atamarindo
Hacienda Tamarindo, nestled on the coast south of Vieques, is a small but powerful bed and breakfast. A swimming pool and a hearty tropical breakfast are some of the benefits of the stay. Still, the friendly service at this family-focused stay is the real highlight.
Things to do
Bioluminescent kayak in Mosquito Bay.
Vieques’ most famous attraction is Mosquito Bay, where phosphorescent plankton turns the waves into a blue ocean and is considered the most vibrant bioluminescent bay in the world. Local tour operators use kayaks to guide visitors through the glowing waters for an experience that can only be described as magical. Many tourists come to Vieques to experience this phenomenon. However, this is only the beginning of the island’s natural wonders.
Sailing, swimming and diving.
Sailing is the best way to experience Vieques. Vieques is also home to many unique diving sites, making it a paradise for Padi-certified travelers. PADI’s local insiders recommend visiting Angel Cay, which is almost home to pristine coral and where divers can see ancient Spanish anchors in the rocks.
Go to the beach.
Even the island’s most idyllic coastline is almost empty during peak season. Demarco recommends Punta Arenas, on the island’s northwest coast, and Caracas Beach, which tops T+L’s list of the best beaches in the Caribbean. Visitors to Vieques can’t miss the aptly named Playa Negra, whose jet-black sandy beaches set it apart from the rest of the island’s powdery white coast.
Sample the local rum.
Every trip to the Caribbean is complete with some local rum. Sample local spirits at the Crab Island Rum Distillery, Vieques’ first artisanal rum distillery, which is small but impressive. Visit or enter the winery’s shop between 12 noon and 8 p.m., Thursday through Saturday. The party starts on Saturday, and live music will be playing.
Go for a health retreat.
Victoria Finance is home to more than beautiful boutique accommodations; it is also the first and only Ayurvedic retreat in the Caribbean. The hotel’s bespoke panchakarma retreats last 7-10 days, but the spa also offers massages, herbal baths, and Chinese medicine treatments for those who aren’t there.
Best restaurant
El Quenepo
Located on the seafront of Esperanza, El Quenepo offers one of Vieques’ few culinary experiences. It sticks to locally sourced seasonal ingredients and offers breezy alfresco dining Spaces with views of the Caribbean, keeping it friendly and tropical. El Quenepo is open Tuesday through Saturday, and reservations are required.
Placita
Hotel El Blok’s restaurant Placita is one of Vieques’ most respected kitchens. Executive Chef Alex Espinal offers a menu of modern Puerto Rican dishes based on daily catches and ingredients available that change frequently from local vendors. The restaurant is open Thursday to Monday, and reservations are recommended.
Tin box
Hidden behind a nondescript corrugated steel facade, Tin Box is the island’s most famous restaurant, serving an odd combination of delicious barbecue and fresh sushi. This formula works perfectly to keep this roadside staple packed. Calypso Night – on Mondays in high season – is one of Vieques’s best live music events.
Banana
Located on Esperanza’s beachfront walkway, Banana feels like the casual beach restaurant every traveler looks for on a Caribbean vacation. Classic Puerto Rican dishes like mofongo shine, while fresh favorites like fish tacos and coconut nuts are menu highlights.
Tourist attraction
“Without understanding the island’s past, it is impossible to understand its unique composition and geography,” DeMarco said. In the 1940s, the U.S. Navy converted almost half of the island into a naval base, leaving only a tiny piece of land in the central third. “This makes Vieques a more vibrant and densely populated area with two undeveloped but beautiful ends on either side, which is today’s makeup.”
Vieques National Wildlife Refuge
When the U.S. Navy began abandoning operations on Vieques in 2001, the land they left behind became the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge. The Vieques National Wildlife Refuge covers almost half of the island. It is considered the most ecologically diverse wildlife refuge in the Caribbean. “The beaches here remain pristine and pristine, which is a small benefit of the dark history,” DeMarco said.
Esperanza
Located on the southern coast of Vieques, Esperanza is a small town with lots to see and do. The beachfront walkway known as the Malecon is the heart of Esperanza, and the island has some of the best beachfront restaurants, several small guesthouses, and excellent hotels like El Blok. The proximity to many of the island’s best beaches and the bioluminescent Mosquito Bay make Esperanza an attractive tourist base.
Isabelle Second Division
Isabel Segunda is the administrative center of Vieques and is located on the island’s northern coast. It is home to the island’s airport and ferry terminal and is the arrival point for most visitors to Vieques. While Isabel Segunda has plenty of shops and amenities, most visitors tend to pass through on their way to Esperanza and the beaches on the island’s southern coast.
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Vieques is from December to April when the weather is relatively mild, the sky is clear, and the water is clear. Although it’s peak tourist season on the island, locals are sure Vieques feels more relaxed than neighboring Caribbean islands. Prices are higher this time of year, but the lively atmosphere and perfect weather are worth it.
While wet weather is more likely from May to August, it’s an affordable and quiet off-season worth considering for a trip. During these months, most of the locals are from the main island of Puerto Rico, and they know that this is a good season to explore Vieques.
September and October are the island’s low season; These months are also a good time for Atlantic hurricanes. Prices will be at rock-bottom levels, but during these quiet months, many restaurants and hotels will close for renovations, repairs, or a well-deserved break.
How to get there
All transportation to Vieques departs from Puerto Rico, whether you prefer to reach the island by boat or plane.
The ferry to Vieques departs from the Puerto Rican town of Seba, about an hour and a half east of SAN Juan. It makes a 35-45-minute round trip several times a day.
Vieques also has a small airport, and fast flights from SAN Juan to Vieques offer a more convenient travel option. Cape Air flies directly from SAN Juan Luis Munoz Marin International Airport, making these flights the best choice for travelers traveling directly to Vieques upon arrival in Puerto Rico. Or, take a Vieques Air Link flight from SAN Juan’s smaller Isla Grande Airport, which is about a 10-minute drive from SAN Juan International Airport.
Alternatively, book a catamaran or yacht for a private trip from Puerto Rico or neighboring Caribbean islands. Dream Yacht Worldwide offers charter flights to Vieques from St. Thomas, near the U.S. Virgin Islands. Leisurely explore Vieques’ best beaches and pristine waters before heading to other destinations such as nearby Culebra and the world-famous Flamengo beach.
